I Review Something

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852 S Broadway
Los Angeles, CA 90014
(213) 413-8626

There are all sorts of food experiences out there. It’s a rare one that intrigues me sufficiently that I scour each and every one of the internets to find recipes so that when I get home, I can start cooking. That’s where UMAMIcatessen left me.

Having not had the Umami burger, it seemed the natural place to start. I’m not sure what the haters are hating on here: it’s pretty brilliant. The layers of umami from the various components all added up to a very satisfying burger. The ketchup alone is the thing that I’m going to spend some time figuring out, as it was a deep, earthy compliment to the burger that I want to have for home use. I should probably be put off by the length of the ingredient list, but I’ve already sourced my marmite and anchovies.

I’d had pigs ear the night before at Animal, so getting an order of them here seemed like a nice opportunity to play that middle school essay game, compare and contrast. Plus, I’m a huge fan of Cosentino’s work, so the chance to have his P!GG version appealed. My verdict? Totally addictive. I had plans to take it easy on these so that my donut dessert wouldn’t leave me rolling out the door, but I finished them all, down to the last fried parsley leaf. The lemon cut the fat nicely, allowing me to add it back on with the brainnaise.

I had the meyer lemon curd, carrot cake, and tres leches donuts for dessert. The first was tasty, the second forgettable, and I think I solved the mystery of the third: taking fork-sized slices and soaking them in the milk left them just the right side of soggy and absolutely delicious. While the donuts offered here were certainly the most unique flavors of those I found in LA, I kind of wish I’d saved room and done a double order of P!GG-y goodness.

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